Erdem, Eastern influences

We are always amazed by the collections of Erdem Moralioglu for his own label “Erdem”. His creative style has become synonymous with versatile designs that still portraying powerful femininity. Erdem reinforces this style and technique with his use of experimental textiles, vibrant prints, and detailed craftsmanship, creating a beautiful world of luxury and cool clothes.

On the opening of his flagship store in central London in the end of 2015, Erdem commented « I always hope that when you buy a dress, you’d own it forever, and absorb it into your life» I always wanted a store that would feel permanent, too”.

The 200 square meter store, located on 70 South Audley Street in Mayfair is a two-storey luxury boutique that has a wonderful atmosphere which blends an array of many intriguing decorative features that include harlequin-patterned marble floor, solid brass-edged mirrors, exotic leafy plants, collection of photography and art books on the tables, some of which comes from the private collection of the designer. It’s very personal and a pleasure to visit.

Erdem’s 2017 Spring collection interprets the cross-cultural exchange between East and West of the 1930s. The boyish modan gāru – the Japanese ‘modern girl’ counterpart to the French la garçonne is one of the cornerstone themes of the collection. Immortalized by Maria Callas as its Japanese protagonist, the army elements of Madama Butterfly inspires the collection’s take on militaria and the men’s uniform, combined with the idea of the traditional Japanese wardrobe. Paintings of girls in kimonos by Dutch impressionist GH Breitner act as a reference for a 19th-century representation of Japonism.

Other particular items include a trench coat covered in luxuriant floral embroidery echoed in a leather motorcycle jacket that features florals taken from a Japanese paper print found in Kyoto and a striped bomber jacket that is also adorned with rich embellishment. There exotic leopard coat in printed rabbit fur with lace trims. All are wonderfully unique and are fine examples of this talented designer.

Lightness characterizes the collection with tulle laces, graphic and scalloped guipures, and swirly Japanese that are tailored by relaxed cuts – sometimes with hints to the kimono. Emphasizing a vibrant meeting between East and West, a pink embroidered jacket in crêpe is adorned with oriental stitching in gold lurex thread, a gilded theme repeated in themed headbands, necklaces and earrings.

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